TANZANIA

Below is a map of the country with our intended route in red.  Our diary entries are below the map.




































6th July

Woke up very happy to be leaving Malawi. Said our thankyou’s to everyone who had helped us out and we were off.... Tanzania here we come!!

Border crossing was possibly the worst and ended up with Toby almost killing a customs official and losing the plot totally!! For anyone who knows Toby I know it will come as a shock to you to hear this!!!!!!!!!!!!

Having used up most of our US$ and changed most of our money into Tanzanian shillings at the exchange office between border posts, we got to customs to get the carnet stamped. Of course they could stamp our carnet as long as we paid 25US$ for the privilege of driving on their roads. Having already paid 150 US$ for our visas, 20US$ for insurance and various other charges it was at this point that Toby had had enough. Not having the 25US$ we had to make our way back to the exchange office and persuade them to let us change some Tanzanian shillings back into US$. They weren’t keen to do it but I think the steam coming from Toby’s ears persuaded them to help.

After sorting out all the paperwork, paying all the charges etc we entered Tanzania with about £3.50 to our name!! I guess it was our fault for not saving US$ as we know it is the magic currency in Africa and we should have known there would be extra charges because we were entering in a foreign registered vehicle.

7th July

A horribly long day in the car to get to Iringa where we are meeting Tim and Becca at Kisolanza Farm tomorrow.

8th July     

Oli is almost beside himself with excitement at the thought of not only seeing Tim and Becca but also receiving the trains that they have kindly brought out with them and he isn’t disappointed. Poor Tim & Becca had spent 4 hours on a bus from Morogoro were a bit jaded from the trip but it didn’t stop Oli from coaxing them into building a track and playing with the new trains. Spent the next day walking, chilling and preparing everything for our trip to Ruaha. 

10th July

Today we are off to Ruaha and having squeezed everything into the truck (including ourselves) we head off from Iringa. When we arrive at the Ruaha gate there is a red Range Rover with its bonnet up – it turns out they have seriously overheated and are waiting for some water. We have a chat with them whilst Tim is sorting out our entry permits – having spent 2 years here he speaks almost fluent Swahili which is a great help.   It turns out that there is a lion kill about 10kms from the gate that happened literally 2 hours ago.   We thank them greatly and dash off to see if we can find Becca her first lion sighting.   We couldn’t have missed it even if we had tried as we find a buffalo carcass lying half across the track with 2 male lions sitting in the shade guarding their ‘prize’. We watch for a while and then head off to our camp. By now it is getting on for late afternoon and we decide that we will set up camp cook and chill and will go back to the lions in the morning.   Whilst setting up the tents etc we have a visitor from a puff adder. It is one of the most venomous snakes in Africa and could be regarded as the most dangerous as it doesn’t move away when it hears people coming and most bites happen after people have literally stepped on them. It slowly made its way away from our camp but we were all a bit edgy and had a very subdued evening going to bed very early. 

11th July

This turned out to be one of our best game viewing days. The lions were still at their kill but there was considerably less of the buffalo left than the day before. Not only were the lions still there but they had been joined by around 100 vultures and 4 hyenas. We watched for a good hour as the lions guarded their kill and although they were full to bursting they were not keen to let anything else have a taste. Each time the lions turned their back the vultures were on it only to be chased off. Then came the hyenas – the lion’s worst enemy – warily testing the patience of the lions. Then in the background the little jackals just waiting for an opportunity to grab a bite. Finally the lion had had enough and charged at them sending the vultures flying in every direction and the hyenas scampering off with tails between their legs.    We have loaded up some photos but due to time constraints haven’t been able to do as many as we would like. We will load up some more when we have more time.

We stopped for lunch at a beautiful spot by the river and made our way back to our new camp site late afternoon having seen loads of game including giraffe, eles, kudus, zebras, impalas, etc, etc.

As we were cooking supper a herd of ele’s came down to the river to drink – we had a great evening and went to bed very happy with no snakes in sight!!

Awoke at about 12.30am to the sound of lions roaring.......about 200 metres from the tents. Looking back it was a great experience although at the time it was quite intimidating and I think this was made worse by the fact we couldn’t see them we could only hear them.   Oli did wake up to ask us “what’s that noise” so we told him “it’s only some hippo’s looking for some food” and he was back to sleep almost instantly.   The lions stayed around for most of the early morning and the roaring grew less and less and a little more distant.   

12th July

Yesterday we had decided to get up early for a morning game drive but after the events of the night before we were a bit wary to get up whilst it was still dark. So, we waited until first light, got up and headed out to find the lions who had kept us up half the night. We could still hear them not too far away but they had hidden themselves extremely well and we couldn’t find them. We decided to do a drive down the river front and just as we were about to turn back we came across 4 male lions basking on the river bank in the early morning light. Ruaha had certainly not disappointed us.

13th July

Made our way back to Morogoro where we will be staying for a few nights before heading off to the beach somewhere.   Caught up with some of Tim’s friends and had a great night out eating pizzas.

14th July

Our wedding anniversary today – 6 years. Mum had sent out our cards with Tim and Becca so opened our cards and felt a bit homesick. Even though we have had a great time we are all really looking forward to getting home and seeing our family and friends – hopefully the weather will change for the better by the time we get back!!

15th – 17th July

Drove to Dar to drop Tim and B ecca off so that they could get the ferry to Zanzibar for a few days and we headed north to stay at Bagamoyo on the beach. Accommodation was great but weather was pretty dull but we had great fun chasing ghost crabs along the beach with Oli. Met a really nice couple who are interested in buying the cruiser from us which is great news. Unfortunately, they live in Nairobi and the red tape involved in getting our carnet stamped so we don’t get landed with a bill for import charges and also for them sorting out importing it into Kenya is a bit of a nightmare so there is a possibility that they may buy it from us in the UK.

18th July

Headed back to Dar for a day as we had a few bits to do. Drove through the city centre and it was crazy there didn’t seem to be any rules or else people just ignored them – there were cars and people everywhere.   Headed out to a really nice place out of the centre and checked into a very plush hotel for the night. We have both decided that we are ready to go home a bit earlier – if the truck gets shipped back we won’t have any transport and would be stuck for about 10 days. So, rang ebookers to change our flights and luckily there was availability. 

19th July

Met up with Tim & Becca and headed to the carvers market to see what lovely things we could find to bring home then headed back to Morogoro for a few days.

20th July

Did a bit of shopping, went out for lunch, Oli played with Keith and Jasmine and we headed to Ed and Naomi’s for a barbecue in the evening.   Everyone in Morogoro has been really kind and very generous and have made us feel extremely welcome. 

21st July

We are going to a wedding today! A friend of Tim’s - from when he was here teaching 4 years ago – is getting married and has invited us all to his wedding. We are heading off to Mikumi National Park tomorrow with Ed, Naomi, Keith & Jasmin and then to Dar on Monday morning.